Patio pavers are the top 40–60 mm (1.5–2.4 in) of a layered system, and nearly every failure we see on a paver patio traces back to something underneath them. A pedestrian-rated paver will carry a barbecue, a fire pit and a dozen guests, provided the base is compacted, the bedding sand is the right sand at the right depth, and the edges are restrained.
This guide covers the pedestrian side of paving: interlocking concrete, clay brick, natural stone, porcelain and permeable patio pavers, how thick they need to be, how the base is built, which patterns resist shifting, and what the work costs per square foot and per square metre in the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.
A patio carries foot traffic and the occasional point load rather than a vehicle wheel, and that changes the thickness, the base depth and the pattern worth choosing.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. This does not affect our recommendations. See our Affiliate Disclosure.
Why Patio Pavers Are Specified Differently From Driveways
The difference is load repetition, not peak load. A walking person delivers a heel strike of two to three times body weight, but it is momentary. A car tyre applies a continuous load, and that repeated flexing pumps a flexible pavement apart.
In practice that produces three specifications:
- Pedestrian patio, Australia and New Zealand: 40 mm (1 1/2 in) pavers on 75–100 mm (3–4 in) of compacted base. Pedestrian-only.
- Pedestrian patio, North America: 60 mm (2 3/8 in), the same unit used for residential driveways, stocked everywhere.
- Vehicular or commercial: 80 mm (3 1/8 in), only relevant if the patio doubles as a parking pad.
Thickness is half the story. ASTM C936 requires an average compressive strength of 8,000 psi (55 MPa) with no unit below 7,200 psi (50 MPa), and a maximum absorption of 5%. Clay paving brick is covered by ASTM C902; the Canadian equivalent is CSA A231.2, and in Australia and New Zealand it is AS/NZS 4455.2, tested under the AS/NZS 4456 series.
The other half is base depth: 100–150 mm (4–6 in) of compacted granular base for a patio, against 150–300 mm (6–12 in) for a driveway.
Patio Paver Types Compared
Interlocking concrete pavers
Moulded, machine-finished units with chamfered edges and tight dimensional tolerance, so they lay quickly and stay flat. They are the sensible default for most patios. Colour is integrally mixed, so a chip does not expose a different colour.
Clay brick pavers
Fired, so the colour is permanent and does not fade under UV. Typically 50–57 mm (2–2 1/4 in) thick and very hard, but expensive per unit. ASTM C902 covers paving brick; standard building brick is not a substitute and spalls badly through freeze-thaw.
Natural stone
- Bluestone and granite are dense and hard; granite runs about 165–180 lb/ft³ (2,650–2,900 kg/m³), so weight is a handling cost.
- Sandstone and slate are softer and can delaminate in wet freeze-thaw; slate suits milder regions.
- Travertine is cool underfoot, but its filled holes can open up and it performs poorly where the ground freezes.
Stone is sold by thickness range, not a fixed dimension, so expect to sort and shim. Ask for ASTM C170 and ASTM C97.
Porcelain pavers
Outdoor porcelain is usually 20 mm (3/4 in) thick with water absorption under 0.5%, tested to ISO 13006. It is stain-resistant, frost-resistant and dimensionally exact, making it the best surface for pedestal systems over roof decks, but it is brittle at the edges, needs a diamond wet saw, and some polished finishes are dangerous when wet.
Permeable pavers
Permeable interlocking concrete pavement uses 12 mm (1/2 in) open joints filled with clean open-graded aggregate over a reservoir base. It is the right answer where stormwater volume is regulated, and the wrong answer on heavy clay without an underdrain. It needs periodic vacuum sweeping to stay permeable; the US EPA’s permeable pavement guidance covers the design detail.
| Paver type | Typical thickness | Joint width | Key standard | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Interlocking concrete paver | 60 mm (2 3/8 in); 40 mm (1 1/2 in) pedestrian-only in AU/NZ | 3–5 mm (1/8–3/16 in) | ASTM C936, CSA A231.2, AS/NZS 4455.2 | The default patio choice; widest range of colours and shapes | Efflorescence in the first season; batch-to-batch colour variation |
| Clay brick paver | 50–57 mm (2–2 1/4 in) | 3–5 mm (1/8–3/16 in) | ASTM C902 | Traditional look; colour that will not fade | Higher unit cost; unrated brick spalls in freeze-thaw |
| Natural stone (bluestone, granite, sandstone, slate) | 30–50 mm (1 1/4–2 in) | 6–12 mm (1/4–1/2 in) | ASTM C170, ASTM C97 | Premium natural appearance; no two pieces alike | Weight; variable thickness slows laying; sandstone and slate can delaminate |
| Travertine | 30 mm (1 1/4 in) | 6–10 mm (1/4–3/8 in) | ASTM C170 | Cool underfoot in extreme heat | Filled holes reopen; poor performer in heavy freeze-thaw |
| Porcelain paver | 20 mm (3/4 in) | 3–5 mm (1/8–3/16 in) | ISO 13006 | Pedestal decks, roof terraces, low absorption | Brittle edges; needs a diamond wet saw; check wet slip rating |
| Permeable concrete paver | 60–80 mm (2 3/8–3 1/8 in) | 12 mm (1/2 in) open joint | ASTM C936 with an open-graded base | Stormwater control on sandy or free-draining soils | Clogs without sweeping; clay subsoil needs an underdrain |
Base Preparation: The Layers That Carry the Load
Excavation and subgrade
Excavate to finished level minus the paver, minus 25 mm (1 in) of bedding sand, minus the base depth. Compact the subgrade and check the slope: 1–2% falling away from the building, roughly 1/8 in per foot (10 mm per metre). On clay subsoil, roll out a separation geotextile first; it stops fines migrating up into the base and bedding.
The base course
Use well-graded crushed stone with angular faces, not rounded river gravel; ASTM D448 No. 57 or a 20 mm (3/4 in) crushed product is typical. Place it in lifts no deeper than 100 mm (4 in) and compact each lift; 95% of standard Proctor density (ASTM D698) is the usual pedestrian target, or modified Proctor (ASTM D1557) where vehicles will drive on it. Compacting in one deep lift is the classic error: the surface reads hard while the bottom stays loose, and it settles.
Bedding sand
Bedding is a levelling course, not a structural layer: 25 mm (1 in) before compaction, screeded flat, using washed concrete sand to ASTM C33. Mason’s sand is too fine and limestone screenings break down in freeze-thaw. More than 25 mm (1 in) is a defect: the pavers rock and the joints open.
Joint sand and edge restraint
Sweep kiln-dried or stabilised polymeric sand into the joints, compact, then top up. Stabilised sand costs more and can haze if over-watered, but resists washout better. Never use polymeric sand on a permeable patio.
Edge restraints are non-negotiable. A concrete curb cast against the base, or a plastic restraint spiked every 300 mm (12 in) into it, stops the field creeping outward. We have never seen a well-built patio fail at the paver, only at the edge.
Laying Patterns and Which Ones Resist Shifting
Pattern is not decoration. It determines how load spreads and whether the field can creep.
- Running bond is cheapest to lay and wastes the least material, but its continuous straight joints give only moderate resistance to creep. Best on small patios with a restrained perimeter.
- Herringbone (90° or 45°) interlocks in both directions, resists creep best, and is standard for any patio taking vehicle traffic. The trade-off is more cutting, typically 5–10% more waste.
- Basketweave pairs alternate bricks at right angles, giving good interlock with a classic look. Often used as a border band.
- Stack bond has no interlock, so individual pavers can rock and the field can shift. Use it for porcelain on pedestals or as an accent, not on a load-bearing flexible base.
Keep joints between 3 mm and 5 mm (1/8–3/16 in). Tighter joints are hard to fill; wider joints let the bedding pump. A soldier course or contrasting border hides cut edges.
What Patio Pavers Cost
The table gives material-only and fully installed costs in US dollars per square foot and per square metre, with approximate CAD, AUD and NZD equivalents. Conversions are approximate and local pricing varies with freight, quarry proximity and labour rates.
| Paver type | Material (USD/sq ft) | Installed (USD/sq ft) | Installed (USD/m²) | Installed (CAD/m²) | Installed (AUD/m²) | Installed (NZD/m²) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Interlocking concrete paver | $2.50–$6 | $9–$20 | $95–$215 | $130–$290 | $145–$325 | $160–$355 |
| Clay brick paver | $3.50–$8 | $12–$26 | $130–$280 | $175–$380 | $195–$420 | $215–$460 |
| Natural stone (bluestone, granite, sandstone, slate) | $6–$20 | $18–$45 | $195–$485 | $265–$655 | $290–$730 | $320–$800 |
| Travertine | $5–$14 | $17–$40 | $185–$430 | $250–$580 | $275–$645 | $305–$710 |
| Porcelain paver (20 mm) | $6–$16 | $20–$45 | $215–$485 | $290–$655 | $325–$730 | $355–$800 |
| Permeable concrete paver | $4–$9 | $14–$30 | $150–$325 | $200–$440 | $225–$490 | $250–$535 |
Three things move a quote more than the paver itself:
- Excavation and disposal. Removing 150–200 mm (6–8 in) of soil from a 300 sq ft (28 m²) patio is several cubic yards of spoil; machine access decides whether that is a few hours or a full day.
- Cuts and complexity. Curves, diagonal patterns, inlays and tight borders add labour; herringbone costs more to lay than running bond over the same area.
- Base depth and drainage. Clay subsoil, a slope, or a drainage line can add more to the bill than upgrading from concrete to natural stone.
Where the money is not worth spending: sealing a concrete patio in its first year, buying 80 mm pavers for a patio that will never see a vehicle, and pedestal-mounted porcelain at ground level.
DIY vs Professional Installation
A patio is one of the few hardscape jobs a careful homeowner can genuinely do. The catch is that the hard part is invisible.
Where DIY works. A flat, well-draining site; under roughly 400 sq ft (37 m²); a simple rectangular shape; running bond or basketweave; and sandy or gravelly soil. Expect three to four full days on 200 sq ft (18 m²), plus tool hire.
What you will need. A plate compactor (rent one; a hand tamper is not a substitute), a screed board and straight edges, string lines, a rubber mallet, a 4 ft (1.2 m) level, and a masonry saw with a diamond blade. Budget $300–$600 in hire and consumables.
Where DIY is a bad idea. Steep grades and anything requiring retaining; clay subsoil with nowhere for water to go; patios over a basement or suspended slab; pedestal-mounted porcelain; and any job that must drain away from a structure. Get a licensed professional involved for structural, drainage and electrical work, and check whether your local authority requires a permit.
Honest arithmetic: on a 200 sq ft (18 m²) concrete paver patio, a professional install might run $2,000–$3,500. Doing it yourself saves roughly 45–60%, but the labour is real and the compaction is unforgiving.
Maintenance, Sealing and Regional Considerations
Once the base is right, a patio is close to maintenance-free. Top up joint sand every one to three years, pull weeds, and re-bed the occasional settled paver. Wash below about 1,500 psi with a wide fan nozzle; a narrow jet blows the joint sand out.
Sealing is optional for concrete pavers and worth considering for clay brick and natural stone. A penetrating sealer leaves the appearance unchanged and lasts two to five years; a film-forming acrylic darkens the colour and can peel. Never seal a permeable patio. Efflorescence on new pavers is cosmetic and usually weathers away; treat it with an efflorescence remover, not an acid wash.
- Freeze-thaw regions (US Midwest and Northeast, most of Canada): specify pavers tested to ASTM C1645 for de-icing salt durability, keep base depth at the top of the range, and avoid stack bond.
- Extreme heat and UV (Australia): lighter colours stay cooler underfoot, and unshaded dark stone or porcelain can become too hot to walk on barefoot.
- Coastal wind and rain (New Zealand, Pacific Northwest): aim for the full 2% fall and keep joint sand topped up against wind-driven rain. Stabilised sand helps more here than in a dry climate.
- Clay versus sand subsoil: clay needs a deeper base, a separation geotextile and a positive drainage path; sand drains well but needs edge restraint.
Supplier availability differs by region. Concrete pavers are made locally almost everywhere; clay brick is a strong domestic product in Australia and parts of the US Northeast, while New Zealand imports most clay pavers. Bluestone is regional to the US, and most travertine and porcelain is imported.
Common Mistakes on Patio Paver Installs
- Compacting the base in one deep lift. The bottom stays loose. Compact in 100 mm (4 in) lifts.
- Too much bedding sand. More than 25 mm (1 in) and the pavers rock; bedding levels the base, it does not build it.
- No edge restraint. The most common cause of a patio spreading at the perimeter within two seasons.
- Wrong sand. Mason’s sand is too fine and limestone screenings break down in freeze-thaw. Use washed concrete sand to ASTM C33.
- Drainage toward the building. Verify the fall before laying, not after; water against a foundation costs far more than a re-grade.
- Ignoring the freeze-thaw rating. A cheap paver untested to ASTM C1645 will scale and spall in a cold climate.
- Choosing stack bond for a load-bearing patio. It looks sharp and performs badly on a flexible base.
Frequently Asked Questions
How thick should patio pavers be?
For pedestrian use, 60 mm (2 3/8 in) is standard in North America and 40 mm (1 1/2 in) in Australia and New Zealand. If the patio will ever carry a vehicle or a hot tub, step up to 80 mm (3 1/8 in). Extra thickness buys little, because the base carries the load.
How deep should the base be under patio pavers?
Typically 100–150 mm (4–6 in) of compacted crushed stone, in lifts no deeper than 100 mm (4 in). Driveways need 150–300 mm (6–12 in). On clay, go deeper and add a separation geotextile.
Do I need a concrete slab under patio pavers?
No, and usually you should not. A flexible build-up of compacted base, bedding sand and restrained pavers handles pedestrian loads well, drains better and is easier to repair. A mortar bed over a flexible base cracks as the base moves.
Can I lay patio pavers on sand only?
No. Sand alone has no load-bearing capacity and will rut and migrate. Bedding sand is a 25 mm (1 in) levelling course on top of a compacted granular base, not a substitute for one.
Which laying pattern is best for a patio?
Herringbone resists shifting best because it interlocks in both directions. Running bond and basketweave are adequate for a pedestrian patio with a restrained edge, and they waste less material. Avoid stack bond on a flexible base; it has no interlock.
About the Author
Wartaholic Writer is a contributing editor at Wartaholic, covering outdoor living, hardscaping, and patio design. Articles are researched against manufacturer documentation, published industry standards, and hands-on installation practice, then fact-checked before publication.
Last updated: September 2026